Martyrdom and carnival puppets

Today, 22nd June, is the feast day of St Alban, the first British Christian martyr who was executed sometime during the 3rd century AD. It is probably to be expected that in the city that bears his name his death is commemorated annually on or around this date. The nature of the commemoration may however be a little surprising.

The Alban Pilgrimage, also known as Albantide, consists of a procession along the route of the supposed last Journey of Alban, a Romano-British citizen of the town of Verulamium. The story goes that Alban gave shelter to an early Christian priest fleeing persecution and was converted to Christianity by him. When Roman soldiers came looking for the priest Alban swapped his clothes with the priest's allowing the priest to escape and Alban to be arrested in his place. Alban was put on trial and as a result of refusing to renounce his new found faith he was subsequently executed.

St Alban in procession

Roman soldier through banners

Clergy with a puppet bishop

Taking part in this parade are members of the clergy from far and wide, local dignitaries and schoolchildren. Oh, and not forgetting a number of 12ft high carnival puppets representing some key characters from the story.

Beginning by the museum in Verulamium park, which stands on the site of the old Roman town, the procession winds its way through the parkland, past the still visible ruins of Roman walls, across the river Ver and up a hill to the place of execution where St Albans Abbey now stands.

As with many stories from the distant past the legend has grown with the retelling. The Venerable Bede for example adds tales of the river parting to let Alban cross, springs suddenly appearing to let him drink, flowers (especially roses) spontaneously blooming as he passed and, rather gruesomely, the eyes of the executioner falling out as he beheaded Alban.

After various stops along the way the procession finishes near the abbey where the beheading of Alban is re-enacted and his (model) head is held aloft by the Dean of the Cathedral for all to see. Perhaps symbolically, this years decapitation was  accompanied by a sudden torrential downpour.

The Dean of St Albans under an umbrella

For those interested, further details of the life of St Alban are available on Wikipedia and the St Albans Cathedral page

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